This summer classic is the happy proof that not all things labelled as salad have to feel like penance for helping yourself to all the fried chicken or barbecued halloumi. Far fresher and zingier than gloopy, ready-made versions, this is the perfect recipe to make the most of those dense, fudgy early potatoes, and easy…
This is exactly my kind of recipe. It’s easy, flavourful and, as a bonus, it’s crispy, too. In fact, it’s so simple, you could make the mixture with your eyes closed or, better still, give it to a six-year-old to do (they could also make it with their eyes closed). The key is the black…
Here are two things about aubergines that you may not know: first, they are giant berries (!) and, second, they’re roughly 92% water. The latter is important, because to get this mighty berry to reach its delicious potential, we need to dehydrate it (that is, remove as much water as possible and then hit it…
Being in the business of recipe writing means I am always seeking the new, always moving on and rarely resting on a single dish. Until summer starts knocking, that is. The sun makes me want to slow down, and I find myself wanting a variation of vegetables agrodolce on repeat. Agrodolce is Italian for sour…
Fresh, light but filling – these bruschetta are beautiful to bring outside as part of a lunch spread. They take minutes to whip together (sorry) and, for extra Marie Antoinette at Le Petit Trianon vibes, pick mint (or/and baby courgettes) from your own garden. You can get ahead by making the whipped feta and lemon…
Nico Simeone is the Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico restaurant empire, and Lennox, in Spring Gardens, Manchester, is his new baby. If you are unfamiliar with Six by Nico, it’s a fever-dream version of fine dining: Simeone conjured up themes such as “The Chippie”, “Italian Road Trip” and “Ancient Rome”, then served six…
When the weather is glorious, I have very little desire to do any “proper cooking”. Turning the grill on for about 15 minutes is the maximum amount of heat I want to subject my home to, which is why, in the summer months, I eat this sort of salad on repeat: stone fruit with golden…
Chez Rose has just appeared on Pollen Street, Mayfair, but to the casual passerby, it looks as if it could have been established in 1974. This is, of course, poudre aux yeux; until recently, this was Jason Atherton’s Little Social. Yet, with some strategically placed tables en terrasse, vintage mirrors, thoughtfully scattered doilies and, later,…
This is exactly what I want to eat when I’m under the weather: a big bowl of Thai-inspired, soupy noodles with turmeric and coconut milk, all spiked with chilli. It’s a soup base that adapts perfectly for vegetarians (add cubed tofu) or leftovers (shredded roast chicken). This makes a lot of broth (hydration is important!),…
Bullgogi, a whopping new interactive multiscreen Korean restaurant in Manchester’s Piccadilly Plaza, has arrived, heralding the end of traditional hospitality – again. It’s the UK’s largest Korean barbecue restaurant – 165 covers, traditional tabletop grills at every booth – but has no servers with notepads, just screens. Your gyeran jjim, your dolsot bibimbap, your bulgogi:…
I have a real aversion to the term “fakeaway”. I don’t know why. But as much as I resist the terminology, I guess it’s exactly what this dish is – it’s 100% based on and inspired by a Chinese takeaway classic: crispy duck pancakes. A real people pleaser, and something my girls adore. Making this…
How can I make fruit salads more interesting?Claire, via emailThere’s a fine line between a boring and brilliant fruit salad, and it comes down to treating it like you would any other salad. “It’s about layering, it’s about texture, it’s about contrast, it’s about colour,” says Gurdeep Loyal, author of Flavour Heroes. That’s not to…
In the summer glut of saccharine fruits such as strawberries and peaches, gooseberries may not be the ones you reach for first. But behind their strange burr of fine fuzz, these translucent, marble-like fruits offer a complex, defiant flavour. They are juicy, fragrant, a little sweet (especially the red ones that come along later in…
In his exquisite The French Menu Cookbook, Richard Olney has clear ideas and strong opinions about everything, including dessert. He believed that rich desserts should follow only the simplest of meals, whereas with most menus (meaning all the sophisticated menus in his book), something light, airy and playful is best. His suggestions read like a…
“Strawberries, cherries and an angel’s kiss in spring,” sang Nancy Sinatra. “My summer wine is really made from all these things …” Overlook the angel’s kiss and, if you’re a wine drinker, you might recognise some of those fruity tasting notes – strawberries and cherries, indeed, but also citrus, orchard, other stone fruits and the…
I love the glorious unruliness of Eton mess, all billowy cream, crushed meringue and tumbling fruit. This frozen version captures all of that charm but in a sliceable, make-ahead dessert that’s perfect for August entertaining. The fruit can even be cooked a day in advance, leaving little more to do than whip everything together before…
Fresh, vibrant and full of summer character, this is a playful twist on the classic. It’s juicy and refreshing, with a bright, citrus kick and a subtle, herbal note that keeps things light and balanced. It also works very well with non-alcoholic tequila. If you like, double the syrup quantities, because it’s delicious drizzled over…
Some developers would rip the soul out of a 1930s banking hall, but Kinz, a new all-day Lebanese brasserie housed in a former Lloyds Bank in Notting Hill, instead makes a feature of its chunky vault door. Where W11 residents once kept their cash, diners can now take a seat and sip Lebanese wine from…
Since reading How Not to Die, by Michael Greger, I’m always looking for ways to include greens in every meal. He regularly pops into my mind when I’m cooking, whispering in my ear: “Add some spinach to that risotto,” say, or “Moringa powder will make your porridge much more nutritious.” So I’m sure today’s green…
One set of guidelines I received in Sicily for sun-drying tomatoes was two to seven days, depending on temperature, humidity, wind and the size of the fruit. I might as well have been given a surfboard and told “go”, because that advice felt far too broad and general to be helpful to a complete beginner….
Hello, from rosé season, the only time of year I order wine like a patriarchal septuagenarian. For this fleeting moment in the wine-drinking calendar, questions are out and assumptions are in; everyone’s happy to drink pink – specifically, pale, dry and berry-crisp Provence rosé. Blushing like cheeks in a summer romance, pale rosé captures something…
Ice-cream sandwiches have really grown on me. I used to find them a bit tricky to eat; far too many of them had outer shells so hard they would crack a tooth, while the rest would turn to mush after a few minutes out of the freezer. Finding the balance between something that has enough…
This is our take on the ultimate brunch cocktail, though of course we had to give it a Gaelic stamp of some kind, so have added a shot of Buckfast and renamed it Maìri. If you’re not familiar, Buckfast is a sweet tonic wine, apparently known for its “healing” properties, made in Devon by Benedictine…
Café Clement, the all-day restaurant inside Nick Jones’ new St Clement Hotel at 180 The Thames in central London, opened with a bang in June and immediately rocketed to the top of every “sell your grandmother for a terrace table” list in London. Which isn’t that much of a surprise, seeing as Jones, founder of…
This summer, UK web searches for “Hugo spritz”, an elderflower-flavoured aperitif, overtook searches for “Aperol spritz” for the first time. As the spritz craze shows no sign of slowing down, pub chains are taking wild liberties, calling anything fizzy and served in a large glass over ice a spritz – and charging £10-plus for it….
Although every culture craves something different in hot weather – chilled beetroot soup in Lithuania, cooling buttermilk drinks in India, gazpacho in Spain – what many of these dishes have in common is a certain soothing silkiness as they slide down the throat, plus a decent helping of salt. Japan’s zaru soba, which Namiko Hirasawa…
Preserving the abundance of summer produce is a wonderful way to extend the season long after the gardens have faded. Opening a jar in the colder months offers more than just something good to eat; it also holds joy, patience and memories. When winter comes knocking, we are ready with something sweet, sour or salty…
Corn is a late-summer staple in our house, but its arrival often leaves me feeling a little blue (end of summer and all that). So, instead, I like to entertain more and make the most of the warm, light evenings. These nachos are a great snack for adults and kids alike (just adjust the chilli…
What can I do with wine left over from a party?Rob, by emailThis is a novel concept, perhaps, but the answer essentially comes down to the quantity: “If we’re talking dribbles of red or white, that’s simple,” says Jon Atashroo, head chef/owner of Where There’s Smoke in North Yorkshire. “They go into sauces, whether that’s…
This lovely summery “curry” is a cold, refreshing dish from Karnataka in India, and is eaten widely in Tamil Nadu, just 20 miles across the Palk Strait from my ancestral Tamil homeland in north and eastern Sri Lanka. Along with chefs Louis and Seb in our development kitchen, we decided that smacking the cucumbers helps…
My new favourite preparation for sauces, marinades and dressings is in a near-empty jar, tub or bottle, so I can upcycle all the remains. Rather than washing it and putting it in the recycling, I instead add a few store-cupboard ingredients to create a dressing or sauce, often re-exploring classics such as a retro Marie…
